THE INDIAN DERMA DEETS
From the rise of adolescent cosmetic obsession to the persistent myth of natural kitchen remedies, Dr. Aanchal Panth, a leading dermatologist deconstructs the biological realities of South Asian skin
Interview by SONALI SEMWAL
ourney back and recall the times when Indian skincare and beauty largely relied on natural ingredients available in our home garden and in kitchens from clay, rose oil, flowers, herbs, honey, and plant extracts. A similar tradi tion was practiced in Europe and America too; women used cold creams and rosewater tonics, olive oil for skin and beauty. Then came the era of post-war, when science, glamour, chemicals, and mass production took place. Beauty increasingly began to be associated with laboratories, chemistry, and the aspiration to look beautiful through fair and glowing skin.
Lux, the Indian brand did the same, it sold more than soap, the same aspiration to urban women. Through Indian film stars such as Sridevi, Madhuri Dixit, Rekha, and many others, beauty and skincare was linked to celebrities, beautifully packaged products, big-budget ads, and hoardings. Analogous narratives and tone to blind-with-bling the Indian traditional homemakers replaced Ayurveda and natural applications. Ponds, Santoor, Lakme, Hamam, then Shahnaz Hussain, and others penetrated their own identified markets and Indian consumerism was transformed forever. The West saw the growth of Ponds, Loreal, Estee Lauder, brands from budget to premium luxury. Fast forward and the trends today are a mix of good, bad and ugly; from glass skin, Korean beauty, celebrity-owned brands to multi-step skincare routine, monochromatic makeup, light therapy, night masks,
and more.
We are sandwiched between mystifying over-information era dominated by hyper-aesthetic clinical packaging and algorithm-based beauty trends. Skincare has transitioned from basic hygiene to a highly result-oriented self-love ritual. This cultural shift has also introduced a distinct, modern anxiety in adolescents, turning what should be a simple practice of care into an obsessive focus on self and
physical imperfections.
Dr. Aanchal Panth, a leading clinical dermatologist and hair transplant surgeon, views this early-onset beauty culture with deep concern, warning that young skin going through intense hormonal fluctuations does not require intervention. “I am absolutely against any brand trying to promote active cosmetic products to this sensitive age group,” Dr. Panth explains, emphasizing that before the age of 16 or 18, a teenager’s skin needs nothing more than a gentle face wash, a basic moisturizer, and a reliable sunscreen. If they have skin conditions, parents must ensure guidance from dermatologists, not misleading brand catalogues.
Parallelly exists the persistent cultural myth of the ‘natural’ kitchen remedy in which Indians have always believed. Especially within the sustainability-conscious community, there is an unspoken assumption that if an ingredient is safe to eat, grown organically, and found in our kitchen, it must be safe and effective to apply to the face. Dr. Panth highlights that raw, non-standardized household
ingredients like lemon juice or raw scrubs can severely disrupt the skin’s natural acidic mantle. She informs us about why East Asian Korean-beauty routines may not work for Indian skin. South Asians have skin with distinct dermal thickness, facial structure, and ageing pathways. While East Asian ageing is characterized primarily by fine wrinkling and superficial eyelid changes, South Asian skin ageing manifests as structural sagging, fat-pad resorption, and deep-set shadows, which no amount of layered hydration can genetically alter. In this interview, we learn many misconceptions and myths that Dr. Panth unravels and learn about healthy skin routines as she throws expert light on them.
MOSAIC: Many people assume that kitchen-based home remedies are safer and more sustainable than bottled products. Are you in favour of home remedies, or do you advise against them?
Dr. Aanchal Panth: I am generally against them. You have to understand that home remedies are only capable of doing two things; either moisturizing the skin superficially or gently exfoliating it if they contain raw acids. They are not going to cure acne, fade deep hyperpigmentation, or fundamentally improve your skin’s health over time. If you use a home remedy purely as a form of self-care or a bonding activity between a mother and daughter, that is perfectly fine. But if you are expecting structural clinical changes, you are simply
wasting time.
One needs to know that the skin barrier is a highly resilient organ; it is designed specifically to keep substances out. Commercial skincare products like serums and moisturizers are formulated with highly sophisticated solvents, emulsifiers, and thickeners specifically engineered to allow active molecules to safely penetrate that barrier. You cannot replicate that with raw kitchen ingredients.
People often argue, “You recommend Vitamin C serums, but lemons and oranges contain natural Vitamin C”. What they do not realize is that applying raw lemon juice to the skin does not penetrate the barrier, instead, its high acidity simply irritates and damages the skin mantle. When you take raw ginger or lemon, there is no standardized concentration. Modern laboratory formulations are standardized, stabilized at a precise, non-irritating pH, and designed to remain active for months.
While I am completely fine with people using soothing, non-citric ingredients like papaya, watermelon, rosewater, curd, cucumber, or even chilled green tea bags to de-puff their eyes, I am strictly against raw lemon, orange, apple cider vinegar, or aggressive besan scrubs. If you want to use a home pack once a week to relax, that is fine, but do not expect it to work any magic or improve existing clinical skin concerns.
MOSAIC: Korean beauty and multi-step routines are dominating global beauty trends and have entered Indian households. What is your perspective on these multi-step routines for South Asian skin?
Dr. Aanchal Panth: On a multi-step layering routine, my answer is absolutely no. However, we must credit the Korean beauty industry for some very positive innovations. They rose to prominence because of the global popularity of Korean pop culture, movies, and food. But we have to understand a fundamental biological truth: East Asians, by genetics, have a very different bone structure, skull shape, and skin thickness that cannot be replicated on a South Asian face.
East Asian skin is genetically thicker, tighter, more lifted, lighter in color, and naturally reflects light in a highly radiant way. South Asian faces have entirely different structural characteristics, we have distinct facial grooves, deep-set eyes prone to dark circles, structural darkening around the mouth, and downturned lips.
Furthermore, we age completely differently. In East Asian faces, ageing typically manifests as superficial wrinkling around the eyes, hooding of the eyelids, and minor dark spots. South Asian skin ageing is characterized primarily by structural sagging, bone resorption, and the shifting of deeper facial fat pads. No amount of topical skincare layering can bridge these genetic, anatomical differences.
Additionally, Korea’s climate is dry and cold for most of the year, which makes heavy product layering necessary and highly beneficial for them. India is a tropical country characterized by intense heat, humidity, and high UV indices. Our focus must remain on lightweight hydration and robust sun protection, not heavy, occlusive layering.
Korean cosmetic chemists nailed the lightweight textures and elegant finishes. This sensorial accessibility made skincare enjoyable for people who previously hated using it, particularly those with dry or highly sensitive skin types. However, those with oily or acne-prone South Asian skin often find that these heavy, hydrating Korean-beauty layers trigger
severe breakouts.
MOSAIC: Sunscreen is one of the most debated topics in skincare. As a strong advocate for daily sun protection, how do you define a scientifically ‘good’ sunscreen?
Dr. Aanchal Panth: Sunscreen science is constantly evolving. A few years ago, the clinical consensus was simple: the best sunscreen is the one you actually enjoy using, because any sunscreen is better than no sunscreen. That fundamental rule still holds true. However, with new-generation filters and deeper clinical data on how sunscreen behaves in tropical climates with high UV indices, our standards have become more precise.
Today, a highly effective sunscreen must feature photostable, new-generation filters, offer a minimum protection of SPF 50, and carry a PA++++ rating. If you have oily skin, you should opt for a lightweight, gel-based formulation; if you have dry skin, a cream or lotion-based formula is ideal.
For stubborn dark spots, melasma, or hyperpigmentation, explicitly look for a tinted sunscreen, as the iron oxides provide essential protection against visible blue light. If you sweat heavily or spend significant time outdoors, look for water and sweat-resistant formulas that offer prolonged, stable protection. For children under the age of 14, I generally suggest sticking to physical or mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
MOSAIC: If you had to distill your clinical expertise into the top five daily habits for healthy skin, what would
they be?
Dr. Aanchal Panth: First, you must understand that the skin is not an isolated surface; it is an active organ and a direct reflection of your internal health. If your body is healthy, your skin will naturally follow. We tend to overlook internal nutrition, physical exercise, and sleep hygiene while over-investing in topical cosmetics. Regular exercise, a balanced diet, and at least seven hours of quality sleep must remain your primary foundation.
Second, always use a gentle cleanser at night, regardless of how tired or busy you are. Third, never skip a night-time moisturizer. Fourth, use your sunscreen consistently. Sun protection does not yield immediate visual dividends. If you use it for three or six months, you might feel like you are wasting your time and money. But your skin will deeply thank you five to ten years down the line when it looks remarkably healthier, firmer, and more even-toned than the skin of those who neglected sun protection. Fifth, keep your skincare routine highly minimal. The more products you layer, the more preservatives, fragrances, and active chemicals you expose your skin to, which exponentially increases the risk of barrier irritation and contact allergies. Keep it simple, safe, and minimal.
MOSAIC: If you had to distill your clinical expertise into the top five daily habits for healthy skin, what would
they be?
Dr. Aanchal Panth: First, you must understand that the skin is not an isolated surface; it is an active organ and a direct reflection of your internal health. If your body is healthy, your skin will naturally follow. We tend to overlook internal nutrition, physical exercise, and sleep hygiene while over-investing in topical cosmetics. Regular exercise, a balanced diet, and at least seven hours of quality sleep must remain your primary foundation.
Second, always use a gentle cleanser at night, regardless of how tired or busy you are. Third, never skip a night-time moisturizer. Fourth, use your sunscreen consistently. Sun protection does not yield immediate visual dividends. If you use it for three or six months, you might feel like you are wasting your time and money. But your skin will deeply thank you five to ten years down the line when it looks remarkably healthier, firmer, and more even-toned than the skin of those who neglected sun protection. Fifth, keep your skincare routine highly minimal. The more products you layer, the more preservatives, fragrances, and active chemicals you expose your skin to, which exponentially increases the risk of barrier irritation and contact allergies. Keep it simple, safe, and minimal.